Why do you breed?

I have a deep passion for this wonderful breed and I love being able to show Labradors. Especially those I have bred, but my ultimate aim is to produce sound, healthy and quality Labrador pups. I enjoy sharing what this beautiful breed has to offer and seeing the joy they bring to a loving family. The extra fur kid!

I only breed to welcome an additional show puppy to our home – not producing puppies for consumer demand.

To do this, I genetically screen Labradors for EIC and PRA as well as hip/elbow scoring. I combine this data along with the nature, general disposition, temperament and conformation of the parents. A breeding does not "just happen". A lot of time and effort goes into selecting the right pairing and then breeding the two to gain a healthy litter.

How often do you breed?

I only breed one or two litters per year.

How are you different to other people who sell puppies?

There is a big difference between puppy farmers, or people just breeding their pet Labrador and myself. Puppy farms and others are not breeders. Please don’t put us in the same category. Breeders are those of us who adore our breed and take very seriously our custodianship of the breed in ensuring we produce amazing healthy dogs for the future.

Every puppy I bring into this world I raise with every part of me, and place in thoroughly thought out homes. Puppy farmers don’t care about their dogs or their futures, breeders care with every part of themselves.

Who are you registered with?

I am registered with the Australian National Kennel Council (ANKC), with my states governing body DogsNSW. The Australian National Kennel Council Limited is the peak body in Australia responsible for promoting breeding, showing, trialling, obedience, and other canine-related activities and the ownership of temperamentally and physically sound purebred dogs by individuals across Australia. It represents the State member bodies, including Dogs NSW.

This means ANKC registered dogs are purebred dogs with multi-generational pedigrees which can be traced back to the foundation of the breed. This is important because you know my Labradors are genuinely purebred.

What colours do you breed?

I don't breed for colours, rather I look for the temperament and type in dogs when selecting for breeding. I can predict what colours I will have in a litter from the genetics of the parents. Labradors come in 3 colours - Chocolate, Yellow and Black. Yellows range from light cream to red fox. A small white spot on the chest and the rear of front pasterns permissible.

What is the difference between boys and girls?

Boys are about 2 inches taller than girls and have a more masculine head, whereas girls have a feminine head. Temperament shouldn’t be any different, it's basically the appearance that defines a boy or girl.

I only want a pet, why should I buy from you when you produce show dogs?

This is a great question. I want my dogs to be easy to train, outgoing, love meeting people, and happy to show themselves off to the judge to be successful in the ring. All the traits that make a great show dog, also make a great pet. An anxious, worried dog, wont make a good show dog, therefore those dogs are not bred from. So have a think about a dog that needs to travel every weekend to a different place, and be around a lot of people, crowds and noises and still perform to their best. A dog with the temperament to handle all that will also be a great pet to join in all the family activities.

Are chocolates crazier than black or yellow Labradors?

No, a colour should make no difference on behaviour! A Labrador should act and behave in accordance with your training – regardless if it is yellow, black or chocolate. Remember you get out of your dog what you put in. Temperament also has a lot to do with bloodlines, and I highly regard this in my bloodlines. I will not keep or breed from dogs that are not easy to live with, train, and friendly and outging. Afterall I am seeking to produce show dogs who are capable of going out week after week and perform at their best. To successfully do this they need a great temperament.

What is the Hip/Elbow Scoring Scheme?

The Hip/Elbow scoring scheme has highly reduced the occurrence of hip or elbow dysplasia since 1997 (when it became mandatory to x-ray prior to breeding). The scheme is based on the theory that if both parents have good hip and elbow scores, they should pass it on to their progeny.  

Hip & Elbow Dysplasia is inherited developmental abnormalities in a dog’s elbow or hip joint, and the hip/elbow scoring scheme only scores the parents hips and elbows for abnormalities, but does not prevent it being pass onto its progeny.  We cannot test for the gene(s) that carry this health issue.

Our Labradors are hip/elbow scored after the age of 1 year old. The procedure is performed by a registered veterinarian. The dog’s hips and both elbows are x-rayed in an extended position. The x-rays are then sent to an accredited radiographer to interpret the results – being the ‘score’.

The average hip score for Labradors is now around 9 total score, with the maximum score being 65 per hip. The lower the score the better, but essentially the combined hip score of both bitch and dog used in a breeding should be no higher than 20. 

Elbows are scored between 0 and 3 and the lower the score the better. We will never breed from a dog that is more than 0:0 bearing in mind there are other genetic factors that could cause elbow dysplasia despite generations of 0:0 elbows.

What happens if my puppy is diagnosed with either hip or elbow dysplasia?

This is a sad, but yet possible situation with purchasing any Labrador puppy. I as a breeder do everything possible to ensure that we are breeding with sound dogs that have appropriate hip/elbow scores.

Given that this should be a rare occurrence, I recommend that anyone owning a Labrador puppy between 8 weeks old to 18 months old – take out pet insurance that covers genetic health problems. If you are ever faced with this, you know that you can provide the best treatment options (including surgery) for your puppy without worrying about the costs!

What does my puppy come with?

1. Certificate of Registration and Pedigree with ANKC (you choose your puppy's name)
2. Puppy Guide book - developed by myself and other breeders with 20+ years experience
3. Microchip details and changeover
4. Copy of Parent's Hip/Elbow scores
5. Copy of Parent's DNA testing
6. Vaccination Card
7. Contract of Sale 
8. 6 weeks free Pet Plan Insurance

Can I choose my puppy’s registration name?

Yes, I encourage a registered pedigree name created by you. The name will begin with Bellbidgee and the total name including spaces cannot exceed 30 spaces.

What is the process in purchasing a puppy from me?

I am not here to sell you a puppy. My purpose is to find out from you if you have the right home for one of my puppies. I will only place my puppies in homes suitable, to do this I need to know about you! I have an interview process beginning with a questionnaire emailed to you. This gives you a chance to tell me about yourself and your family, and to ask me some initial questions. This is then followed up by a comprehensive phone call. If I feel your not in the right situation for a puppy I will discuss and explain this to you. During the process it is paramount that you are happy with me as a Breeder, and that I am confident you will put all you can into providing your puppy with an excellent home and future.

Can I pick a puppy?

No, I will choose a puppy for you. As I am watching them grow and develop, I am looking for certain traits/personalities that I believe would be suitable for you and/or family. In my time of breeding, all my families have been more than happy with the puppies selected for them.

How are your puppies socialised?

My puppies are whelped inside my house (usually in the lounge room!). They become very familiar with life, and sounds, and are handled and cuddled from day 1. From here they are consistently handled, patted and carried around the house. Although I don't have kids, most of my friends and family do, and this is prime visiting time, to meet and socalise the puppies. At 4 weeks old, they move outside to the puppy area and this is when I start playing with them with toys and start teaching some basic manners. I play random sounds for them to expose them to sounds that they will hear in the world around them, as they venture off to join families.

When can I start walking my puppy?

It is the myth that puppies need to be exercised from a young age – this is WRONG! We do not recommend you exercising your puppy until after he/she is over 1 year old. For every 1 dog year – is equivalent to 7 human years. With this in mind, a 6 month old puppy is equivalent to a 3 ½  year old child – would you take a 3 ½ year old child on a 2km run? No! And neither should your puppy be expected to walk that distance without the possibility of an injury.  My ‘Care for your Labrador Puppy Guide Book’ has more information about this topic and how to combat boredom in a puppy.

Why do some Labradors cost more than others?

I believe that colour is not a factor for adjusting the cost of a Labrador. All my Labrador puppies are the same cost regardless of colour (yellow, black & chocolate) or girls/boys. All my breedings are from the lowest hip/elbow scores I can use and parents are fully DNA profiled. I am producing top quality pups and do not spare expenses in doing so. Expect to get what you pay for.

If you have anymore questions please don't hesitate to contact me.